Chikankari embroidery, a centuries-old craft from Lucknow, India, is renowned for its intricate, delicate designs and understated elegance. Often found on lightweight fabrics such as muslin, cotton, silk, and chiffon, Chikankari embroidery offers a unique blend of heritage and style, making it a favorite in both traditional and contemporary fashion. The craft is known for its subtlety, using white thread to create delicate patterns, though colored threads and vibrant fabrics are also popular in modern adaptations.

History and Origins of Chikankari

Chikankari, derived from the Persian word “Chikan,” meaning “embroidery,” is believed to have been introduced to India by the Mughals. Noor Jahan, the wife of Emperor Jahangir, is often credited for popularizing this art form in the royal courts. Originally a monochromatic art, the craft has evolved over time, incorporating new colors, designs, and embellishments to appeal to a wider audience while still preserving its traditional essence.

Key Techniques in Chikankari Embroidery

Chikankari involves over 30 unique stitches, each adding depth and dimension to the fabric. Some popular stitches include:

  1. Tepchi: A simple running stitch that forms the base.
  2. Bakhiya: Also known as “shadow work,” where stitches are done on the reverse side to create a subtle effect on the front, adding depth and texture.
  3. Keel Kangan: A small, delicate stitch often used to outline flowers and leaves.
  4. Phanda (Buttonhole Stitch): This knot stitch adds dimension and intricacy to floral designs.
  5. Murri (Rice Grain Stitch): Resembles rice grains, providing a delicate finish to the overall pattern.
  6. Zari (Metallic Thread Work): Incorporates gold or silver threads for a touch of luxury, often used in festive garments.
  7. Rahet: A stemmed stitch that is hardly used in its basic form but is frequently utilised in the double version of Dora bakhiya.
  8.  Banarasi: A knotted stitch made on the right-hand side of the cloth using six threads. Banarasi Chikankari Sarees are very famous for the same.
  9. Khatau: a type of appliqué that is similar to Bakhia but finer. The design is created on calico, then embroidered into the surface of the finished cloth with paisley and flower designs.
  10. Taipchi: A long-running or darning pattern to highlight a particular theme.
  11. Bahia: or shadow labour, is classified into two types: multi and sidhi.
  12. Jali: Traditionally worked by ripping the threads of the material and forming minute buttonhole stitches.
  13. Hool: a little detachable eyelet stitch. It is made with six strands and resembles the heart of a flower.
  14. Zanzibar: After one or more outlines have been done, the Zanzeera stitch is used to delineate the leaf/petal forms finally.

Each stitch has its own significance, adding a layer of depth to Chikankari’s artistry. The precision in each stitch reflects the expertise and patience of the artisans, most of whom have honed this skill over generations.

The Making of Chikankari: A Step-by-Step Process

Chikankari is a meticulous process involving several steps:

  1. Design Creation: The design is first block-printed onto the fabric using washable ink.
  2. Embroidery: Skilled artisans use various stitches to fill in the designs.
  3. Washing and Finishing: The fabric undergoes multiple washes to remove any trace of the ink and to soften the embroidery, giving the fabric a seamless finish.

Types of Chikankari Motifs

Chikankari motifs draw inspiration from Mughal art, nature, and floral themes. Common motifs include:

  • Floral Patterns: Inspired by Persian gardens, these are the most popular designs.
  • Paisleys: A classic Indian motif, adding a touch of elegance.
  • Geometric Shapes: Often combined with floral designs to add variety.

Types of Chikankari Products

Various forms can be found in Chikankari, which is versatile such as:

  • Apparel:
    • Kurtas and Kurtis: Perfect for casual and festive occasions.
    • Sarees: Traditional wear that showcases intricate craftsmanship.
    • Dresses: Contemporary designs incorporating Chikankari for modern aesthetics.
  • Home Décor:
    • Tablecloths and cushion covers featuring Chikankari can enhance the elegance of any space.
  • Accessories:
    • Stoles and scarves: Lightweight options that feature beautiful embroidery.

While traditionally used for sarees, kurtas, and dupattas, Chikankari has found its way into modern clothing styles like dresses, tunics, shirts, and skirts. Designers now experiment with bright colors, sequins, and mirror work, blending traditional embroidery with contemporary fashion. Bridal wear, too, often incorporates Chikankari for a luxurious yet understated appeal.

Caring for Chikankari Embroidery

To preserve the delicate stitches, it is best to hand-wash Chikankari garments in mild detergent and avoid wringing. Ironing on a low heat and storing in a dry place will also help maintain the garment’s quality.

Buying Chikankari

When purchasing Chikankari, consider the following:

  • Authenticity: Look for reputable sellers or directly from artisans to ensure you are getting genuine Chikankari work.
  • Online Platforms: Websites like Amazon, Etsy, and dedicated Indian textile websites offer a variety of Chikankari products.
  • Local Markets: If visiting Lucknow, explore local bazaars like Chowk or Hazratganj for unique pieces.

Conclusion

Chikankari embroidery is more than just a craft; it’s a legacy of Indian heritage and artistry that has stood the test of time. The labor-intensive, hand-made nature of Chikankari makes each piece unique and special. As global fashion embraces artisanal craftsmanship, Chikankari continues to captivate with its intricate designs and versatility, appealing to fashion enthusiasts worldwide.